We try to escape branding and labeling everyday. It sets up an expectation of life that is often so compelling we can no longer see things as they really are. The expectation often gives us a false sense of familiarity toward something that is old or new and unprecedented, something we can’t wrap our head around.
The post soviet movement was probably the most important in fashion and streetwear last year. It stands out in a sharp contrast to what happened in the rest of the world. Nobody really knows when this hype about the post soviet fashion of Vetements and Gosha Rubchinsky began, but it’s clear that young designers and bloggers mimic the aestethic that Gosha and Gvasalia introduced to the world as some kind of uniform of unity.
It’s remarkable that most of todays fashion creatives from the former soviet union, who are celebrated internationally, are between 20-30 – which means that they were very young when it fell apart. For them, the soviet republic is a semi-mythical past whose decaying remains are still scattered over the country: Empty buildings, broken monuments and gray concrete walls covered in amateur-like graffiti. For the young fashion designer, this specific code has become a source of empowerment as well as an understanding to deal wih the past.
In Germany, we as well are dealing with a past we can’t hide. We can’t be proud of our country otherwise you are a Nazi. But we can deal with it and try to use fashion as some sort of sensitization.
Dandy Diary and Munich basketball and streetwear label K1x have put together a “Deutschland Pack” which centers the german flag.
The blogger duo Dandy Diary have took guerilla fashion for example:
“If Vetements prints DEUTSCHLAND on their hoodies and Gosha brings out the Russian flag and send it to the streets – thats a beginning to cut those cliches which Germans still have to deal with out, once and for all.”
On each pieces the imperial eagle is upside down. Mistake or intention? Maybe the eagle is the symbol of the stereotypes one insulted when openly wearing the flag. The eagle has been a mistake, but still a beautiful subliminal message.